I need some help 2012 DL650 rectifier???

[norcalkid]

My low beam headlights stopped working. I just assumed it was a burnt wire which is kinda common with VStroms. Today I headed up 32 and my dash started flashing on and off, FI and freeze lights on and off, tach bouncing from pinned to zero, and the weirdest part if I turned the high beams off the bike completely died (dash, motor everything), flip them back on and it ran. I made it home and the bike completely died in my driveway. I have zero power when I turn the key, no dash, no fuel pump, nothing. Battery has 13.1V and the big 30 amp fuse has power. Does this sound like the regulator? I'm guessing the stator still works because my battery is full. Any ideas?

She gave her all, got me home then died. I love this bike!!!


A couple pics from last week.

PXL_20260611_164134958 by Norcalkid, on Flickr

PXL_20260611_171317244.MP by Norcalkid, on Flickr

PXL_20260611_174831361 by Norcalkid, on Flickr

PXL_20260611_181850622 by Norcalkid, on Flickr

PXL_20260611_183136955 by Norcalkid, on Flickr

 

[ST Guy]

I’ve forgotten much I know about Suzukis. But i do know that they used to wire things up with the headlight as part of the charging circut. What I did, besides installing an aftermarket stator, was to use a Honda regulator/rectifier instead of the crappy Suzuki one and rewired it so the charging circut no longer passed through the headlight. That took care of the problem. Good luck.

 

[ST Guy]

And don’t ask me why Suzukis have crappy charging systems. Mine was a 1981 model. A GS650G. 45 years later and they are still crappy.

 

[ST Guy]

Have a look at your wiring diagram and see if one of the three wires from your stator goes through your headlight.

Then make sure you have sufficient AC voltage from all three pairs of stator wires while the bike is running.

And put your battery on a Battery Tender. It’s likely low due to the likelihood you were running on just your battery. You don’t want your battery to sulfate while your fixing your bike’s problem.

And the Honda VRR was a used one off of an old 550. Any VRR is better than one from Suzuki. Just make sure it has enough capacity for your bike.

 

[ST Guy]

From the internet:

The stock Suzuki DL650 stator produces roughly 280W at 3,500 RPM. Upgraded aftermarket stators from brands like Electrosport or RegulatorRectifier.com typically boast outputs around 340W at the same engine speed.SpecificationsThe factory-specified output limits depend largely on the RPM range.Factory Output: 280 Watts @ 3,500 RPMMax Output: Roughly 400 Watts at higher RPMs, though it peaks at around 3,500 RPMSystem Type: 3-phase AC outputHow to Test Stator OutputWhen troubleshooting, you should test both the AC output of the stator itself and the DC output of the voltage regulator to see where the fault lies. Testing should always be done with a fully charged battery.1. The Dynamic AC Voltage Test (Bike Running)Use a multimeter set to AC Volts and probe the three yellow wires coming from the stator.At idle: You should read approximately 25V AC on each leg.At 4,000–5,000 RPM: Voltage should jump to around 60V to 70V AC.Note: All three legs should output roughly identical voltages.2. The Resistance / Continuity Test (Bike Off)Unplug the stator from the regulator and use your multimeter set to Ohms (Ω).Coil Resistance: Measure between all three combinations of the yellow wires. The Suzuki manual specifies the acceptable range is typically between 0.2 to 0.7 Ohms.Ground Test: Test for continuity between each yellow wire and the engine block or frame. There should be no continuity (infinite resistance). If there is continuity, the stator is shorted to ground and needs to be replaced.Common Troubleshooting & UpgradesThe DL650 is notorious for stator and wiring issues stemming from heat and corroded connections.Melted Plugs: The primary connector between the stator and the voltage regulator often corrodes, causing high resistance, heat, and melted wires. Direct soldering or upgrading to a sealed, waterproof connector is a highly common repair.Regulator/Rectifier: Weak or fried regulators can kill a perfectly good stator. Many owners upgrade to the upgraded MOSFET-style SH847 Regulator/Rectifier to prevent future burn-outs.Replacements: Should you need to swap out the unit, ElectroSport and RegulatorRectifier.com offer widely used drop-in high-output units.For tips on how to check your stator output step-by-step using a standard multimeter:

 

[ST Guy]

Also, check here for good advice:

StromTrooper

A forum community dedicated to all Suzuki Strom owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, troubleshooting, purchasing, reviews, accessories, maintenance, and more!

www.stromtrooper.com

 

[dravnx]

The R/R will not turn everything off. There is a large connector covered with a black vinyl sleeve on the left hand side of the steering stem. Peel back the vinyl foreskin, disconnect and inspect. Don't dismiss the battery though. A surface charge will indicate correct voltage but the battery will have very low capacity. Pull the battery, charge it and get a load test.

 

[norcalkid]

Thanks!!

Battery was totally charged, 13.1-2v, I threw it on the charger/tender anyway but it just indicated full charge. I was able to start the bike this morning and it operated sorta normal when cold. The dash flickered a bit but nothing like yesterday.

I'm not guna mess with it, It started and I just grabbed my helmet and rode it to the nearest shop (still closed) and walked home. I F-ing hate tracking down electrical... Call me a sissy but I'm guna go back when they open to check it in.

 

[norcalkid]

The R/R will not turn everything off. There is a large connector covered with a black vinyl sleeve on the left hand side of the steering stem. Peel back the vinyl foreskin, disconnect and inspect. Don't dismiss the battery though. A surface charge will indicate correct voltage but the battery will have very low capacity. Pull the battery, charge it and get a load test.

That connector was what I thought the headlight problem was after cleaning the start switch but it looked OK. But ya, that does make a lota sense if there is a headlight short that's where it could short everything else.

 

[ST Guy]

And if you load test, don’t use an electrnic load tester. They are notorious for giving bad info.

To properly load test a battery, you must use a tester that has very large resistors that can put a real load on the battery. Not some fancy electronic tester which cannot do that and only interpolates battery health.

 

[ST Guy]

I should have asked this earlier….

With the bike idling, what is the voltage at the battery? And then, with the rpm’s around 3000 to 4000, what is the voltage?

 

[ST Guy]

And what is your battery voltage when the bike hasn’t been running for at least three hours? If you check the charge too soon after shutting the engine off or removing the charger, the reading will be artificially high. You must wait before taking a reading. This would explain your 13+ volt reading. A fully charged, brand new battery only produces 12.8 volts. Anything higher than that means you checked it too soon.