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Stans June/July 2025

Motorcycle RN

Pretty Vacant
Joined
Apr 9, 2007
Location
Modesto,CA
Moto(s)
'04 GSXR600, '85 RZ350, '88 TV250, Santa Cruz Superlight
Name
Scott
Stans 2025

I could write a long novel about this trip. The experiences we had and the people we met were amazing. The impetus for this trip started a few years ago, Moin Khan & I discussed the possibility of riding the Pamir Highway which goes through Tajikistan & Kyrgyzstan along the Afghan border. For thos not familiar with Moin, he’s been leading tours around Pakistan with his company “A Different Agenda” for several years. Smash cut to Winter 2025, Moin messaged me about doing the ‘Stans tour in the summer which would include Afghanistan. He asked me how I felt about it, I replied, ”Nervous”. After a shootout occurred in Modesto by Trader Joe’s where I shop, I texted him, “I’m in.”

I arrived in Islamabad, Pakistan on 6/24/25. The next day we went to the Afghan consulate for visas. We met with the ambassador who approved our visas. At first they gave us visas for air arrival only, we told them we needed land visas and they were accommodating. We asked for road permits and were told we could get them at the consulate in Peshawar.

The next day we rode to Peshawar. We met up with Moin’s friend Shah-baba who has a garage where we could store our bikes. We also met up with Dragos & Simona from Romania. They were riding from Romania on a trip around Asia. Moin met them the week before in Northern Pakistan. They would accompany us for most of our journey.

The next day we went to the Afghan consulate to get road permits. The answer was no. Apparently there’s no agreement for private vehicles to cross the Pakistan/ Afghan border. They told us that if we got Carnet they might issue road permits. We drove 6 hours to Lahore on a Saturday, waited for the auto club to open on Monday, and got carnet. We drove back to Peshawar arrived Tuesday AM, went to the Afghan consulate with our carnet and were once again denied road permits. A 5 hour staring contest with Taliban officials netted no results. Moin went back the next day to try again and still no-go. At dinner that night we came up with all manner of plans to cross into Afghanistan. The Romanians had already crossed Afghanistan and had road permits. We decided to take all of our paperwork to the border and try our luck.

The next morning on July 3rd we rode over Khyber Pass. We passed miles of trucks waiting to cross the border. We went through customs and passport control which took about 3 hours. We were given back our passports & paperwork and sent into no-man’s land with one official standing between us and the Afghan border. We elected Dragos to show him our paperwork. He convinced the guy to let us pass. On the Afghan side we expected the same long process. Within half an hour our passports were stamped and we were on our way. Our Central Asia trip was finally underway!

Once we’d crossed the border we rode on to Jalalabad. Because of the time we took at the border, most of the ride was in the dark. In Afghanistan lane choice and lighting are optional. After a few hours of white knuckle riding we arrived in Jalalabad. We found a nice hotel with a restaurant across the street. Dinner was was good and the owner didn’t want to charge us. I wound up paying him $11 because we had no Afghani cash.
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Party in Lahore!
 

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Ali’s horse ranch in Lahore near the India border.
 

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Cruising a Vespa & a Tuk tuk around Peshawar. Simona getting truck art painted on her Transalp. Shah-Baba’s kids.
 

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Ready to go!
 

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Khyber Pass, the border, & made it into Afghanistan!
 

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Stans 2025

I could write a long novel about this trip. The experiences we had and the people we met were amazing. The impetus for this trip started a few years ago, Moin Khan & I discussed the possibility of riding the Pamir Highway which goes through Tajikistan & Kyrgyzstan along the Afghan border. For thos not familiar with Moin, he’s been leading tours around Pakistan with his company “A Different Agenda” for several years. Smash cut to Winter 2025, Moin messaged me about doing the ‘Stans tour in the summer which would include Afghanistan. He asked me how I felt about it, I replied, ”Nervous”. After a shootout occurred in Modesto by Trader Joe’s where I shop, I texted him, “I’m in.”

I arrived in Islamabad, Pakistan on 6/24/25. The next day we went to the Afghan consulate for visas. We met with the ambassador who approved our visas. At first they gave us visas for air arrival only, we told them we needed land visas and they were accommodating. We asked for road permits and were told we could get them at the consulate in Peshawar.

The next day we rode to Peshawar. We met up with Moin’s friend Shah-baba who has a garage where we could store our bikes. We also met up with Dragos & Simona from Romania. They were riding from Romania on a trip around Asia. Moin met them the week before in Northern Pakistan. They would accompany us for most of our journey.

The next day we went to the Afghan consulate to get road permits. The answer was no. Apparently there’s no agreement for private vehicles to cross the Pakistan/ Afghan border. They told us that if we got Carnet they might issue road permits. We drove 6 hours to Lahore on a Saturday, waited for the auto club to open on Monday, and got carnet. We drove back to Peshawar arrived Tuesday AM, went to the Afghan consulate with our carnet and were once again denied road permits. A 5 hour staring contest with Taliban officials netted no results. Moin went back the next day to try again and still no-go. At dinner that night we came up with all manner of plans to cross into Afghanistan. The Romanians had already crossed Afghanistan and had road permits. We decided to take all of our paperwork to the border and try our luck.

The next morning on July 3rd we rode over Khyber Pass. We passed miles of trucks waiting to cross the border. We went through customs and passport control which took about 3 hours. We were given back our passports & paperwork and sent into no-man’s land with one official standing between us and the Afghan border. We elected Dragos to show him our paperwork. He convinced the guy to let us pass. On the Afghan side we expected the same long process. Within half an hour our passports were stamped and we were on our way. Our Central Asia trip was finally underway!

Once we’d crossed the border we rode on to Jalalabad. Because of the time we took at the border, most of the ride was in the dark. In Afghanistan lane choice and lighting are optional. After a few hours of white knuckle riding we arrived in Jalalabad. We found a nice hotel with a restaurant across the street. Dinner was was good and the owner didn’t want to charge us. I wound up paying him $11 because we had no Afghani cash.
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this is my dream ride. can’t wait to read the whole report.
 
7/4/25

We left Jalalabad @ 1100 heading to Kabul. The day was hot, per Dragos the thermometer on his bike read 44 Celsius. On the road we took pix of an abandoned Humvee and some fellow travelers, and a warning to drive safe. We arrived in Kabul in the afternoon. The city was quiet because it was a Friday. We walked around the city and exchanged dollars for Afghanis.
 

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Seeing some big smiles.

Very cool.
 
Wow!!! Fantastic Scott!
 
Moin told us about, and was excited about this adventure, which was upcoming right after BARFistan. Thank you for posting this cool stuff.

It is difficult, er, impossible, to convey the Awesomeness of these adventures
 
Itchy boots has videos of the same area. This one kind of demonstrates how wonderful the people are.
She lost her drivers license and motorcycle registration when she left them on her top case and rode off. Someone found them and is returning them, which is an adventure in itself.
 
Walking around Kabul. Cash exchange, attept at Charlie's Angels, Kabul Traffic, a street vendor, Kabul street, ice cream shop.
 

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How were your dealings with the Taliban?
Mostly ok. A bit bureaucracy intensive Getting road permits was difficult. Also there were a lot of checkpoints along the the road. The people we were traveling with got searched by the Taliban on their first pass through Afghanistan. After all of their gear was all taken out, the Taliban said they were looking for a drone.
 
The Itchy Boots video of her traveling through there recently showed several instances of scowling men with AK-47’s asking her for her papers again and again along the road.
Not a good place to be for women so that may have been part of it.
 
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The Itchy Boots video of her traveling through there recently showed several instances of scowling men with AK-47’s asking her for her papers again and again along the road.
Not a good place to be for women so that may have been part of it.
The checkpoints were tedious. Mostly they just wanted to see passports & visas. A couple of them gave us a hard time.
 
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