Archimedes
Fire Watcher
OP, you might make sure your levers are adjusted properly. Then it's just a matter of practice. I have 2 fingers brake and clutch at all times, always done it that way.
For the street always cover the brake. Period. The half second you save is the half second that saves your life. At 60 mph you move 88 feet per second. Not having to move your hand to brake can save your life.
The track is different, completely different.
i make an "Ok" sign with my hand. the throttle goes into the loop and the 3 fingers go on the brake lever. that way you can blip the throttle and have good control of the front brakes. just practice it and it will become second nature....then you will buy a bike with a slipper clutch and fuck all that muscle memory up.
Are you expecting to have contact or be above the brake at all times? That isn't possible with a normal throttle and normal sized hands. You just get use to holding your finger(s) above the lever level, so when you close throttle they go over the lever to the correct braking position. I use my two middle fingers, because my hands were too small when I started riding to cover with the index. Some do it middle fingers, some use the index finger. I like have the index finger available for better throttle control.

Here's a really cool video of throttle blipping while on the brakes...140mph>>>throttle closed>>>brakes>>>two downshifts with throttle blips while on the brakes...tip into the corner...
He does get off that front brake pretty quickly, but it looks like he knows what he's doing...
This could be instructive for Thunderhill T-1...
http://http://player.vimeo.com/video/28492071?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0&autoplay=1
Can someone comment on throttle blipping vs. just not letting off the gas?
Sorry, I don't think I was clear.It settles the bike on downshifts, allowing for smooth downshifts without upsetting the chassis (i.e. locking up the rear or engaging your slipper clutch)...
But, keeping steady on the throttle is easier than blipping the correct amount, right? What am I missing about blipping?
That your method runs the revs sky high. If you are already at red line when you downshift......................
Sorry, I don't think I was clear.
Staying on the gas:
1. [Right hand] holding throttle steady
[Left hand] Pull in clutch
--> Revs go up
2. Downshift
3. [Right hand] holding throttle steady, still
[Left hand] Let out clutch
Because the revs went up when the clutch was pulled in, depending on how quickly the clutch was let in-and-out, the engine will be rev matched for the downshift. No blipping was involved. The shift is still smooth and doesn't unsettle the chassis.
Throttle blipping:
1. [Right hand] Partially close throttle
[Left hand] Pull in clutch
2. [Right hand] Quickly open throttle
[Left foot] Downshift
--> Engine revs a little higher and starts coming down
3. Let out clutch
By the time the clutch is being let out, the engine has the inertia from the throttle blip and carries higher RPM that (hopefully) matches the road speed for the selected gear. This is also a smooth shift.
But, keeping steady on the throttle is easier than blipping the correct amount, right? What am I missing about blipping?
Sorry :/This is very confusing.
Thanks, this is a pretty good way to articulate what you're doing.Downshifting with blipping
- Smooth, quick transition from full throttle to full brake
- Leaving just enough time for the following steps, continue through the braking zone holding same gear
- Apply light pressure on the shifter in the direction of downshift
- Blip throttle (about quarter opening), pull in clutch just enough to get into the friction zone
- Let the shifter move due to gearbox pressure being relieved and smoothly but quickly release the clutch lever
Substeps listed in steps 4 and 5 must happen simultaneously. Furthermore, steps 4 and 5 are barely separate themselves. Think of everything in steps 4 and 5 as one smooth motion.
Downshifting with steady throttle
- Smooth, quick transition from full throttle to full brake
- Leaving just enough time for the following steps, continue through the braking zone holding same gear
- Apply light pressure on the shifter in the direction of downshift
- Pull in clutch fully through the friction zone
- Let the shifter move due to gearbox pressure being relieved and smoothly and controllably release the clutch lever, watching for rear end wiggle if not equipped with a slipper clutch
I'm pretty far away from being able to consistently pull this one offDownshifting clutchless
- Smooth, quick transition from full throttle to full brake
- Leaving just enough time for the following steps, continue through the braking zone holding same gear
- Apply light pressure on the shifter in the direction of downshift
- Blip throttle (about quarter opening)
- Let the shifter move due to gearbox pressure being relieved
In this case, knowing how much to blip the throttle is crucial to smooth shifts. Also, this is very difficult to do when initial pressure on the gearbox is small or when gear ratios are not close enough or the throw between gears on the lever is large (like some bikes have between 2nd and 1st).
I mentioned this on the first page of this thread, but no one responded to it till now. Thanks for providing some more insight.Downshifting while braking does not allow you to stop faster. Engine braking slows the bike the same way the rear brake does, by slowing the wheel down.